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East West Supply Co.

Skincare Education

How to Read INCI Labels: Cosmetic Ingredient Lists Decoded

· East West Supply Co.

The 60-second INCI rule

Ingredients are listed in descending order by weight down to 1%. Below 1%, order is flexible. Actives (retinol, vitamin C, peptides) often appear in the bottom third because effective concentrations are typically 0.1–2%. The first 5 ingredients usually make up 70–80% of the formula. That’s the “base” — water, humectants, emollients, thickeners. The next 5–10 ingredients are where the functional story of the product lives.

The 4 Parts of Every Ingredient List

Know the structure and labels become easy to skim

1. The base (positions 1–5)

Usually Aqua (Water), Glycerin, emollient oils or silicones, and thickeners. Tells you if the product is water-based (lightweight) or oil-based (richer).

2. Functional ingredients (6–15)

Actives and botanical extracts. Niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, plant extracts, vitamins. This is the main “reason to buy” section.

3. Texture & stability

Emulsifiers, pH adjusters, chelating agents. Look for Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA. Boring but necessary.

4. Preservatives & fragrance (last)

Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate — safe preservatives at under 1%. Parfum/Fragrance means undisclosed fragrance compounds. Natural essential oils are listed by their INCI name (e.g. Rosa Damascena Flower Oil).

Latin Names You’ll Actually See

Centella Asiatica Extract = rau má, the classic Vietnamese skin-calming botanical. Curcuma Longa = turmeric root, brightening and anti-inflammatory. Citrus Grandis Peel Oil = pomelo essential oil, the scalp circulation booster.

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil = Damask rose, hydrating and calming. Benincasa Cerifera Fruit Extract = winter melon (bí đao), balancing and brightening. Nelumbo Nucifera = lotus, antioxidant and anti-aging.

Cocos Nucifera Oil = coconut oil. Butyrospermum Parkii = shea butter. Tocopheryl Acetate = Vitamin E. Ascorbic Acid = pure Vitamin C. Learn 10 of these and you can decode 80% of clean beauty labels at a glance.

See Full INCI on Every Cocoon Product

Every product page shows the complete manufacturer INCI list in the Ingredients accordion.

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